Men XS (chest 84 cm)
Button-up shirt pattern, men's size XS (84 cm chest)
Classic button-up shirt with collar and cuffs, highly customizable. Sized without bust.
12pattern pieces
27pieces to cut
≈ 1.75 ydof main fabric (60" wide)
You will also need: interfacing.
Sewing instructions
General steps to sew this garment. Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8") unless stated otherwise.
Supplies
- Shirting (poplin, oxford, linen)
- Fusible interfacing
- Buttons
- Matching thread and the right needle
- Prewash and press your fabric before cutting so it will not shrink after sewing.
- Print the pattern at 100%, check the test square and cut the pieces following the cutting list. Transfer notches, darts and button marks.
- Press and sew the button and buttonhole plackets on the fronts.
- Attach the yoke with the "burrito" method: back between the two yoke layers, then the front shoulders.
- Interface the collar and stand. Sew the collar, turn, topstitch and sandwich it between the stand layers; attach the stand to the neckline.
- Slash the sleeve vent and sew the sleeve placket (overlap and underlap pieces).
- Set the sleeves flat with a flat-felled or serged seam.
- Sew the underarm and side seam in one go, matching the armhole seams.
- Interface the cuffs, sew, turn and attach them to the sleeves, matching the pleats.
- Hem: double-fold to the inside, press and topstitch or blind stitch.
- Mark and sew the buttonholes, then sew on the buttons opposite them.
Cutting list
| Piece | Cut | Material |
|---|---|---|
| Back | 1× on the fold | Main fabric |
| Buttonhole placket | 1× | Main fabric |
| Button placket | 1× | Main fabric |
| Collar and undercollar | 1× | Main fabric |
| Collar and undercollar | 1× | Main fabric |
| Collar and undercollar | 1× | Interfacing |
| Collar and undercollar | 1× | Interfacing |
| Collar stand | 2× | Main fabric |
| Collar stand | 2× | Interfacing |
| Cuff | 4× | Main fabric |
| Cuff | 2× | Interfacing |
| Front right | 1× | Main fabric |
| Front left | 1× | Main fabric |
| Sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Sleeve placket overlap | 2× | Main fabric |
| Sleeve placket underlap | 2× | Main fabric |
| Yoke | 2× | Main fabric |
Measurements used in this size
| Measurement | Value | How to measure |
|---|---|---|
| Biceps circumference | 29.5 cm | Around the widest part of the relaxed upper arm. |
| Chest/bust circumference | 84.2 cm | Around the torso at the fullest part of the chest, tape level. |
| Shoulder to bust | 25.1 cm | From the high point of the shoulder (next to the neck) to the bust point. |
| Back length | 42.2 cm | From the high shoulder point, down the back, to the waist. |
| Neck circumference | 32 cm | Around the base of the neck, where a shirt collar sits. |
| Shoulder width | 40.4 cm | From one shoulder point to the other, across the back. |
| Shoulder slope | 13° | Shoulder angle in degrees (usually between 10 and 15). |
| Waist to armpit | 18.8 cm | Vertically along the side, from the waist to the armpit. |
| Waist to hips | 11.7 cm | Along the side, from the waist to the hip line. |
| Waist circumference | 70.1 cm | Around your natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso. |
| Hip circumference | 70.7 cm | Around the hips, at the level of the hip bones. |
| Arm length | 60 cm | From the shoulder point to the wrist, arm slightly bent. |
| Wrist circumference | 16.1 cm | Around the wrist, over the bone. |
Between two sizes?
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